Vineyard breaks in Porto and the Douro Valley
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From luxury historic estates to modern wine bars, this region is a wonderland for wine lovers
Porto and the Douro Valley makes a brilliant two-stop trip for wine aficionados. Porto is a well established destination now and most visitors never leave the city – and why would they when there is so much it has to offer? A thriving dining and drinking scene along with churches, galleries, festivals and markets, and a really lively, youthful buzz. Across the mighty Infante Dom Henrique bridge is Vila Nova de Gaia, where the informative WOW museum complex can be found, and famous port houses run tours and tastings in their historic warehouses.
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However, those who venture up to the Douro Valley, a couple of hours away, will be rewarded with further riches. Narrow terraces of vines, some built hundreds of years ago and still maintained in the traditional way, follow the contours of the valley’s steep slopes that weave into the rugged, breathtakingly beautiful landscape.
The region is most famous for port but is increasingly making table wines made from all manner of native grapes and deeply rooted in the unique terroir. Take a day trip from Porto to visit wineries or stay a few nights at any of the quirky B&Bs, vineyard stays, historic hotels and spa resorts that dot the area. Rent a car and explore on your own terms or take the train from Porto to the pretty towns of Peso da Régua and Pinhão where you can take wine-based river boat trips.
Where to stay
Tivoli Kopke Hotel, Porto Gaia
In a prime spot in Gaia with fabulous views across the river to Porto, this gorgeous five-star hotel has chic rooms, a spa, one of the few outdoor pools in the area, a rooftop bar for sundowners and a glamorous jazz club for late night revelry. Choose Michelin recommended food in the smart 1638 restaurant or go for more low-key dining at the Boa Vista Terrace – don’t miss the iconic rooster rice dish there. tivolihotels.com
Quinta do Vallado Wine Hotel, Régua
Just two miles from Peso da Régua, this is one of the oldest wineries in the region and is now in the hands of the sixth generation. Choose from rooms in the original manor house surrounded by gorgeous gardens, more minimalist rooms in its sleek modern wing, each with a private balcony, or luxurious suites in Casa da Eira nearby. There’s a pool, spa and restaurant using produce from the garden, and a variety of tours and tastings. quintadovallado.com
Where to visit
Quinta do Bomfim, Pinhão
Conveniently located right on the river in Pinhão, Quinta do Bomfim is part of the Symington Family Estates stable and has been producing Dow’s ports from the adjacent vineyards since 1896. Its fascinating tours and tastings have won global tourism awards, as has its Bomfim 1896 restaurant with a wood-burning oven at its heart. symington.com
Real Companhia Velha, Vila Nova de Gaia
Founded in 1756, this is the oldest wine company in Portugal and runs various tours and tastings in its cellars, and its fascinating museum which covers the history and culture of the region. Eat afterwards at the lovely Enoteca 17.56 restaurant with panoramic views across the river and very good food. realcompanhiavelha.pt
Quinta da Pedra Alta, Alijó
Under new ownership since 2018, this remote estate, run by a young and innovative team making excellent modern table wines, as well as ports, is well worth a detour. Visit the winery and cellars, take an off-road vineyard tour, then enjoy a picnic at the highest point of the property with stunning views across the region. qpa.pt
Where to eat
Libatio, Régua
Despite being in this historic town where narrow streets wind up the hill from the river, Libatio wouldn’t look out of place in Hackney. A wine bar focusing on international and regional table wines rather than port, it’s where the young and switched-on winemakers hang out. Cool wines, cool music, cool vibe. libatio.pt
DOC, Folgosa
On the south bank of the river halfway between Régua and Pinhão, this is high-end, destination dining in a wonderful location. Great cocktails, inventive cooking, faultless service and an incredible 700+ bottle wine list – there’s even a cigar menu for postprandial puffing. docrestaurante.pt
Toca da Raposa, Ervedosa do Douro
There’s no website for this hidden gem, family-run restaurant that’s beloved by locals for its traditional food and excellent wine list. Kid goat is its most famous dish but there’s plenty of other choice, too. Be sure to phone and book ahead, especially at weekends. +351 969 951 191
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